I hired a guide today to drive me around the villages and forests of the Middle Atlas mountains, home to the Berber people. Monir (sp?) was an excellent guide and indulged me by speaking English all day, although I did try my broken French with him.
Driving past endless olive groves, we first visited a waterfall in Sefrou. Then drove around the mountain to Ifrane, my real curiosity. This lush mountain town is intentionally architected to feel like an Swiss village, with pitched, red tile roofs everywhere and a distinctly European feel. Apparently it snows a lot in this area. Some ski fields nearby. Someone carved a lion from a rock outcrop in town.
In the town of Imouzzer, we stopped in on a woman who has lived in a cave (grotte) all her life, literally. Dinky, one room grotto right in the village where she has raised her family. She served us fantastic Berber tea and demonstrated her weaving skills.
On to the once-a-week souk (market) in Azrou. Huge, temporary affair where everyone must be doing their shopping for the week. The cherries from this area are delicious. Wonderful kebab lunch in town.
Next was the forest where Macaque monkeys live. Very tame and accustomed to visitors.
For dinner, fantastic chicken pastilla at Riad Andalib with a couple I met from Manchester/Marseilles. Pastilla (or bastilla or bisteeya) is filo wrapped around a filling, baked into a pie, and sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Sweet welcome and savory sustenance in one dish. Ground chicken and almond is common, as is squab. Also started the meal with Moroccan salads - 6 small plates each with their own vegetable base - tomato and honey, courgette, aubergine, carrot, red pepper, and cauliflower.
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