Essaouira to Agadir

Drove south from Essaouira to Agadir, about 3 hours. Pretty uninspiring, passing through dusty villages whose entrances are foreshadowed by scrub trees bearing plastic bags delivered by the wind. I'm not sure what the asthetic is but nobody bothers to prevent it or clean it up.

Approaching Agadir, the road joins the coast again. Awesome surf breaks have made this area a destination for surfers and beachgoers. Agadir itself is high rise buildings in the centre ville and no medina that I've noticed. That might be due to the catastrophic earthquake in 1960. Plus, a Club Med and a huge Sofitel complex. I'm staying at a cheap hotel downtown far from the resorts. A refreshing respite after a long, arid drive.

Think I'll seek out the "Irish" pub for a beer before dinner!

"Irish Bar", ha! This is an empty dance hall during the day, night club after hours, serving Heinekin, Bud, and the national beer Flag, which is as good as you'd expect a nation of mostly non-drinkers to produce. Refreshing, nonetheless. 

I did *not* go to Pizza Hut or "GFC" (Golden Fried Chicken) but had to take the photo. 

Went to a restaurant called Mezzo Mezzo for dinner. Felt like I could be anywhere in France. 

North of Essaouira

Took a drive about 1.5 hours north out of town along the coast. Dry farmland coming down to dunes and the ocean.

Stopped at village of Souira Kedima, a place waiting for something to happen. Half finished houses, promenade along an empty beach, idling trucks. Would only take a little bit of attention, perhaps from Europe, to get this place hopping.

Dinner tonight at Triskala. Great veggie meal topped off with chocolat fondant, like a brownie. Just what I needed after having a bit of gastro-intestinal distress. 

Essaouira

Laid back town with a fishing and tourism economy.

Marrakech to Essaouira

Rented a car to drive myself from Marrakech to Essaouira ("esweera"). Great drive once I got out of the urban area. In the small, beautiful oasis town of Chichaoua I was stopped for failing to yield in a traffic circle. I was still driving in Marrakech mode. But the gendarme just took my last 100dh - about $12, all the cash I had - laughed and let me go. Don't know if he was laughing at taking my last dollar or because I had foiled his effort to exact more.

Passed through groves of argan trees, one with actual goats in its limbs!  I didn't bother to stop and get my own photo.

Essaouira is a gorgeous seaside town. The Portuguese created a fort here and the cannons remain on the ramparts. Great medina (ancient walled town center) without risk of getting lost, windsurf beach, fishing port. I'll enjoy my time here.

Had dinner at the open air fish stalls where you pick from the daily catch and they prepare right there. Mullet, John Dory, snapper, prawns, sole, flounder, calamari, even lobster. Think I'll have a few meals here.

Badia Palace

Today, a visit to Badia Palace. Expansive showcase for visiting dignitaries in the late 16th century, it was disassembled not long after and now lies in ruins.

Bahia Palais

Another walk through the souks today with Bahia Palais as destination. Wasn't harassed at all today - yesterday, they must have known somehow that it was my first day.

Bahia Palais was built in the late 1800s as private residence to the grand vizier (prime minister). Ornate stucco and tiling.

Souks and Place Jemaa el Fna

Well, I'm in the right spot. After late breakfast at the riad, I ventured out to the souks (markets). I paid a "faux guide" to get me lost, then another to help me find my way! No worries, it's all part of the game.

View from Dar Zelda

Stopped in at a spice shop for a couple goodies. They have really amazing spices, from saffron and galangal to special blends for tagine.

Was guided, then, to a textile shop. No shortage of young men who will be glad to show you the way to their family's shop. So wonderful to walk through the crowded alleys and stalls, though. I was completely lost. But found my way to the big square: Place Jemaa el Fna. Stopped for pamplemousse ice cream (grapefruit) and vert menthe thè (green mint tea). Can't wait to see this at night.

Afternoon at Place Jemaa el Fna

Made my way back to the riad by a very circuitous route - good thing I had placed a pin on google maps. But after a day of wandering, I'm getting the hang of it.

Marrakech Museum

Going out to dinner with new friends DanO and Tracy I met while traveling yesterday. Funny the bonds one makes while you're all in the same predicament. Turns out that in this vast city of hotels and riads, they are staying just a few steps away!

Night at Place Jemaa el Fna (the smoke is from all the food stalls)

Overhead view of Place Jemaa el Fna